Thursday, January 29, 2009

Niman Ranch and the high cost of meat

When I was a full time meat eater, I was a big fan of Niman Ranch meats. They promised "unsurpassed animal care" and animals raised on the largest network of sustainable U.S. family farms and ranches. Their animals are never given antibiotics or hormones, and are vegetarian-fed. And the meat they raise is, in fact, delicious.

So it's a bummer to learn that Niman Ranch will soon merge with Chicago Natural Food Holdings LLC, its main investor, because the company "never turned a profit." I've remained a proponent of sustainably farmed meat for those that feel they can't do without a good steak (or heaven forfend, bacon) once in a while - but always agreed with Michael Pollan that maybe meat isn't supposed to be as cheap as factory farming makes it, and would pay a little more for the reassurances that are offered by the ranchers in a small independent collective like Niman.

I don't know how other so-called sustainable meat companies are doing, nor do I know the businesspeople behind the company -- but one would think that Niman, which has long been the label of choice at every eco/health-conscious Bay Area market and restaurant I ever visit, ought to have been able to make it work as an independent company.

Or maybe it's just that that the cost of mass-produced meat is too high, period.

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